Loiseau des Ducs

The story

The restaurant opened in July 2013 and won its star in the 2014 guide. Its setting is part of the pleasure: the Hôtel de Talmay, once known as the Hôtel des Barres, is a classified historic monument, and the restaurant spreads across three rooms, a sixteenth-century vaulted hall, a nineteenth-century salon with fireplace and panelling, and a Burgundian room with a beamed ceiling and exposed stone.

Iulian Fistos was born in Romania, came to France in 2010 and trained at the Jean Monnet hotel school in Limoges. He joined the two-star brigade of La Côte d'Or in Saulieu in 2017 and rose from chef de partie to second in command, absorbing the house style for six years before taking charge in Dijon, his first post as head chef.

The cooking

The brief is to express the elegance of Burgundy by reworking the region's classics: frank flavours, well-made sauces and respect for the ingredient, the hallmarks of Bernard Loiseau's style. The cards change with the seasons and lean on regional suppliers, from snails and Dijon mustard to cheeses from Burgundy, Franche-Comté and beyond, and MICHELIN singles out the desserts for praise. An oenothèque serves fine Burgundy by the glass, so each course can find its match without committing to a whole bottle.